The Versatility of the Fabric
The versatility of khadi fabric makes it even more popular today as it has the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. Another unique quality about the fabric is that the more you wash Khadi, the better it looks. Khadi does not easily wear out and has a shelf life of at least four years. Attractive designer apparel is made by doing handwork on khadi garments. Both Cotton and Silk Khadi have gained immense popularity amongst people.
Weaving of Khadi
Not only in India, but Khadi also holds a long history in some of our neighbouring countries like Bangladesh and Pakistan. The fabric is known for its versatility and sustainable fashion. It is hand-woven and hand-spun in cotton, wool, or silk.
The journey from Cotton to Khadi passes through several stages.
Farming and Cleaning
At first, the local artisans and weavers directly pick the cotton, which is used for khadi fabric from fields and then separates the fibres from cotton seeds by using a sharp comb for cleaning. This process gives a super fine finish and glazes to the fabric.
Carding and Spinning
The final material obtained after carding is known as silvers. After carding, weavers spun the silvers into yarn using the spinning wheel “Charkha”. In the spinning process, silvers are twisted and thinned to provide strength.
Reeling and Weaving
Artisans wound these spun yarns into reels and transports to the weavers. Once reeling is done, skilled artisans and weavers’ hand-weave these reels into the fabric. After the weaving process, the fabric is sent to skilled artisans for dyeing using organic vegetable dyes. The process is completely natural and pollution-free.
Empowering Women
Women form 82% of the total workforce of the Khadi industry in India. The weaving of Khadi is mostly done by women hence providing economic empowerment to them. Not only women, but the Indian Khadi industry also employs numerous youths of India.
Global Popularity of Khadi
Emerging as Swadeshi fabric by Mahatma Gandhi and from being a poor man’s choice of clothing, India’s very own khadi has upgraded itself as the favourite of people from diverse backgrounds and has found its way into everyone’s wardrobe today. The image of khadi fabric is changing from a desi weave to a global fabric. This Made in India fabric has gained popularity as a global brand. From 103.22 million square metres in 2014-15 Khadi fabric production has increased to 170.80 million square metres in 2018-19. With a turnover of approximately Rs. 3215 crores in 2018-19, the Government of India targets to maximise it to Rs 10,000 crore mark in next five years. To promote and strategize the export of khadi fabric, the Ministry of Commerce and Industry of India allocated a separate Harmonised System (HS) code for it. This is a six-digit identification code designed by the World Customs Organisation, which helps in harmonizing and maintaining customs and trade procedures.
The fabric has also gained huge market value in foreign countries like the United States, New York, Dubai, Italy, Australia who import Khadi from India.
Khadi- an intrinsic part of our society
A handwoven fabric mostly made out of cotton (at times even from silk or wool), khadi has seamlessly made it to young India's fashion, and also acquired a space in the millennial wardrobe. Among the many reasons that make Khadi extremely in demand, is the comfortable summer-friendly fabric that has a very sophisticated and aesthetic look and feels. Also, the “Made in India” Novelty of the natural fabric has made a trusted and loved fabric amongst youths. The Khadi fabric has shaped the contemporary fashion of India. With its rich and cultural history, the fabric evokes memories of India's great past. Khadi thus appropriately exemplifies the combination of independence, technology, and identity.
The Present Situation of Khadi Fabric
With the emergence of silk and a variety of new fabrics in the Indian market, Khadi fabric has lost its historical importance up to a great extent. Khadi is not just merely a fabric but an emotion for Indians. Since Khadi is mainly produced and handwoven in rural India, local artists are finding it really difficult to promote their arts in the ever-evolving market. Due to a lack of technical know-how and limited funds, rural Indigenous weavers are lagging behind to uphold their creations on world platforms.
To overcome this challenging situation, the need of the hour is to help the Indian weavers and promote their arts with proper marketing and training them with technical knowledge. Artsofindia.in is one such platform that is making every possible effort to showcase the arts of these artists and popularize fabrics based on their rich cultural and historical heritage and sustainability. The revenue earned by selling the products on this website goes directly to support the rural artisans. Khadi is produced with 100% eco-friendly hand-woven techniques and plays an important role in protecting the degenerating environment.
Picture Source: The Business Standard
